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I’m a firm believer that solo travel is the cure for just about anything.
Big fight with a friend? Book a flight to Bali.
Going through a breakup? Binge-eat waffles in Belgium.
Didn’t get that promotion? Oh well, see you in Paris!
I mean, not to go all Eat. Pray. Love. on you, but solo travel seriously does wonders for the soul. And trust me, I know it can seem daunting as a woman, but it’s also all kinds of empowering once you get past the initial “am I really going to another country all alone?” panic.
While there was no major life event that triggered my trip to Rome, I hadn’t embarked on an adventure alone since early college and knew it was time to get back in the game. And then, I just happened to read Ashley & Jenna’s Florence in the Off Season travel journal and, well, that pretty much sealed the deal. I mean, nothing screams “New Year, New Me” like hopping a plane to Italy for your first solo trip in nearly 5 years, right?
Flash forward to me spending 4 days savoring all the Carbonara, stepping into ancient Roman history, sipping Italian wine, and strolling through museums all by myself – I loved every solo second, even more than I initially thought I would.
So if you’ve set your sights on a solo getaway, are looking for a long weekend in Rome itinerary, or are wondering if winter is still a good time to travel around Italy, this is the travel journal for you.
After catching some sleep on my overnight flight, I landed in Rome on Thursday morning at about 8:00 a.m., excited for the nearly full day ahead. I grabbed my carry-on and made my way through customs before I realized I had zero plan for how I’d get to the city center from Fiumicino Airport. Luckily, a quick Google search filled me in on a few options, and I opted for a 30ish-minute ride on the Leonardo Express train for just 15 euros. If you’re flying into FCO, I’d highly recommend going this route, as it’s quick, easy, and much less expensive than taking an Uber or taxi.
After arriving at Rome Termini Station, I made my way to my hotel: The Hoxton Rome. In typical Hoxton fashion, their Rome property is stylish with all-around good vibes. The lobby alone was love at first sight, featuring an open-concept space that’s a coffee bar and co-working by day, cocktails and club music by night. And while slightly outside the city center, it’s apparently a buzzy hotspot for locals to hang out.
By the time I check in and head to my “Shoebox” room – their smallest room offering ideal for solo travelers – it’s about 11:00 a.m. I booked a guided walking tour of the Colosseum and Roman Forum with Walks of Italy for 1:00 p.m., so I decided to start freshening up post-flight before heading out for the day. I arrive at the tour just in time and spend the next 3 hours marveling at the architecture of ancient Rome and mingling with my tour group. The tour ends in the middle of the Roman Forum just before sunset, and I stroll through the ruins on my own for a bit before making my way over to the nearby neighborhood, Monti, for dinner.
I really have no plans for the evening outside of dinner, but am loving every minute I spend in Monti. I first stop in a church to simply admire its beauty, then beeline for the funky Pifebo Vintage Shop I spot ahead. It takes me about an hour to sort through every fur coat, leather boot, and vintage jacket in the store, and while I didn’t buy anything, I definitely recommend stopping in if you’re in the area. And, it happens to be just around the corner from my dining destination for the evening, Ai Tre Scalini.
Ai Tre Scalini was one of the restaurants recommended by the front desk when I told them I’d be spending my evening in Monti – what they didn’t tell me is that it’s rather famous, but you’d never know based on the look of it. It’s quaint, charming, and looks like a local family spot, which is exactly what I was looking for on my first night in Italy. I’m seated at the small bar when the waitress comes over to take my order. I immediately tell her this is my very first meal in Italy, and before I even finish my sentence, she tells me I need to try the lasagna. I order just that and a glass of Italian red, and finish my meal with Tiramisu that’s to die for. My entire meal was only 30 euros, plus the free aperitif that the bartender threw in for me.
After a wonderful meal, I walk down the street past dozens of restaurants and bars that are slowly getting busier as the night goes on. Sacripante Gallery catches my eye, and I pop in to realize it’s not only an art gallery but a hidden cocktail bar as well. Of course, I stay for a drink – you can’t just stumble upon a hidden cocktail bar and not stay for a drink. I enjoy my cocktail and the abstract art for a little while before hitching a ride on a Lime scooter back to the hotel.
Between walking tours and wandering the streets of Monti, I had a jam-packed first day. Back-to-back guided tours can be too much for me, so Day 2 was a full day of exploring on my own.
Today’s agenda included a visit to Galleria Borghese, one of the world’s greatest art museums that was formerly an Italian villa. Only a select number of people are let in every day, and you typically have to wait months to secure a ticket if you’re visiting during the busy season. But since it was the middle of January, I was able to secure a same-day ticket for the noon timeslot. I got dressed, grabbed a coffee, and walked about 15 minutes before arriving at the museum. The museum had a more intimate feel than any I’ve ever been to – maybe it was the size, or maybe it was the cap on how many people are allowed in at a time – and it completely took my breath away. I wouldn’t call myself an art connoisseur by any means, but if you even slightly enjoy fine art, you’ll be completely amazed by Galleria Borghese. Even beyond the art and marble sculptures, the various rooms housing the art are just breathtaking. To really set the mood, I put my AirPods in and shuffled classical music on Spotify as I walked through each exhibit (*chef’s kiss*). I would highly recommend stopping here regardless of the season, especially when tickets were only 17 euros.
After processing the perfection I just witnessed, I stopped by the cafe in the lobby for a cappuccino and sandwich before strolling through the museum gardens. The gardens are free to visit, even if you don’t have a museum ticket, so it’s definitely worth exploring the picturesque grounds, greenery, pond, and various fountains scattered throughout the property. Personally, I found a spot to sit, pulled out my Kindle, and peacefully read on a bench in the gardens for an hour or two.
My afternoon of art and outdoor reading was perfect, and next was my personal evening walking tour through the city center. I started my walk from Villa Borghese to the center around 5:00 p.m., planning to hit the Spanish Steps, Trevi Fountain, the Pantheon, and more. After snapping a few pictures at each of the sights, I stopped at a small patio in front of the Pantheon for sips and snacks. I sat there sipping my wine, eating free potato chips that were provided by the restaurant, and soaking in the view of the Pantheon – life was so good.
Walking even further west, I made my way toward Trastevere, one of Rome’s most famous neighborhoods. Think narrow cobblestone streets, tons of outdoor dining, and locals galore sharing some Friday evening drinks with friends. Unfortunately, I don’t remember where I ate – it was a Friday night in one of the busiest neighborhoods in Rome, I had no reservations, and I took the first table I could get. It wasn’t a memorable meal anyway, but what was memorable was my after-dinner experience in the town square, Piazza Trilussa. A local man was singing and playing guitar, which quickly garnered a large crowd, and before you know it we were all singing a famous tune or two together. It seemed to be a nightly occurrence, so maybe you too will also have a wholesome experience singing with random people in Rome, haha.
Toward the end of the night I realized I walked a whopping 3 miles from the hotel, and I was not about to walk all the way back. Instead, I flagged down a taxi, took it back to the hotel, and ended my night at the lobby bar, Beverly. My cocktail was fab, as was the atmosphere and the company I made at the bar.
I had an early start to my Saturday, as I planned to spend the day in Vatican City and my ticket timeslot for the Vatican museums was at 9:00 a.m. Many people hire a tour guide for this, but I just used the free audio guide that came with my museum ticket. And honestly, even in the off-season the Vatican museums are super crowded – you’d probably be able to hear info from the sheer number of tour guides speaking in a small space.
Immediately upon entering you’re graced with a gorgeous view of St. Peter’s Basilica that you can take in from the terrace. From there, I explored various exhibits including the works of Michelangelo and the Sistine Chapel. There’s so much to take in, and it’s truly something you just have to see for yourself – I quickly discovered that pictures do no justice in Rome.
After spending the morning and early afternoon in the museums, I walked to St. Peter’s Square, which left me in awe. I’m not sure I ever thought about how big the Basilica was, but it was much larger than expected. The views from the square are stunning, but I was excited to get inside the Basilica itself. I’m happy to report back that seeing the inside of St Peter’s was my favorite (and free) experience I had in Rome. It’s simply incredible, and there aren’t enough words to describe how jaw-dropping it is. Even if the line is extremely long, which is was when I left, you must schedule a stop here.
I wasn’t quite ready to leave the area after spending time in St. Peter’s, so I grabbed a slice of pizza from a nearby shop and sat on the steps of the square. There’s nothing quite like eating pizza in Italy while soaking up the sun on the steps of an iconic monument. From there, I explored the surrounding area, stopping at Humana Vintage shop and a few others as I found my way back to the city center.
My Friday night dinner fail was getting to me, so I went back to Trastevere for another attempt at a delicious meal – specifically, carbonara. Of course, the restaurant I set my sights on was booked up for the night, so I was back to square one. Finally, after going door to door again, I was pointed in the direction of the restaurant across the street, Cambio.
The host at Cambio told me she’d have to see if they could squeeze me in, and after some shameless begging, she sat me at the bar. Seriously, thank god they fit me in because the Carbonara was insane. I mean, just look at it. 10/10 for presentation, 11/10 for taste.
I was done with dinner at about 10:00 p.m., navigated the crowds of people lining the streets for Saturday night festivities, and decided to head back to the hotel early. But if you’re a night owl looking for a good time, Trastevere on a Saturday night is the place for you.
I decided my last full day would be a lazy Sunday. No plans, no tours, no searching for restaurants – just going with the flow, seeing the sights, walking through neighborhoods, stopping along the way, and enjoying every bit of my last moments in Rome.
My morning started with coffee at Faro Rome, a happening cafe near The Hoxton. They had plenty of pastries and breakfast items as well, but I just stuck with my cappuccino. I ended up back in Monti, which was decidedly my favorite neighborhood. And if you couldn’t tell, I’m a sucker for vintage shops, so I had to stop at King Size Vintage when I saw it. There were a few designer finds I tried on, and if you dig hard enough, you can find old D&G dresses, Valentino blazers, and more.
It was nearing lunchtime, and I spotted a colorful menu across the street from the vintage store. Yes, I chose my lunch restaurant based on the fun menu design, but that’s how a “go with the flow” day is supposed to go, right? The literal hole-in-a-wall restaurant was a Neapolitan street food place called Ce Stamo A Pensa, and I’m so glad the menu caught my eye. Another wonderful serving of carbonara and tiramisu later, I was happily stuffed – which meant it was time to walk it off again.
Heading into the late afternoon, I wanted to find a spot to see sunset. I had heard something about an orange tree garden, which was actually called Giardino degli Aranci. It sits on one of the seven hills of Rome, and is touted to be one of the most romantic gardens in the city.
It took a little bit of searching to find the entrance, but it was stunning as soon as you walked in. The tree-lined paths were beautiful, the smell of oranges filled the air, and the garden terrace was a perfect lookout point for sunset. And the local man playing the guitar to set the mood was the cherry on top.
After one of the most striking sunsets I’ve ever seen, I headed to Piazza Navona for a paint-and-sip class I booked. Our instructor met me and others who signed up for the class at the front of the building with pizza and wine, which was included in the experience. We walked into the small studio, painted with colorful pop art that made for a fun, creative atmosphere.
The vibes were immaculate, if I do say so myself, and the instructor encourages us to paint anything we wanted, instead of the typical classes where you all paint the same piece. This personal touch made the experience for me, as I felt like I had the perfect, personalized souvenir to take home with me. Our instructor taught us the basics of painting from scratch and setting your canvas up while we munched on pizza and sipped our wine, and came over to give advice as needed as we started the painting process. The small group of us got along great, the instructor was fun and friendly, and it was the perfect way to end my last night in Rome.
I’d love to answer any questions about my itinerary or experience solo traveling and hope this helps you plan your long weekend in Rome!
Chicago-based writer, foodie, and travel enthusiast who enjoys exploring the world one restaurant at a time. Visting the Windy City soon? Come say hi!
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